It can be both exceedingly easy and incredibly difficult to identify non-geisha that look so similar to true geisha. There are always clues as to whether or not the person is a maiko or geisha, and a careful analysis with the right knowledge will most likely always yield a clear answer.
So why are there so many pictures and misidentified geisha? Who is being confused for geisha and why? Here’s a quick guide (well, kinda) to non-geisha and how to identify them:
Henshin
If you Google the terms geisha or maiko the resulting images are most often filled with henshin. Henshin is a Japanese word that means transformation, and maiko or geisha/geiko henshin refers to tourists dressing up as geisha or maiko. Maiko and geisha henshin is an extremely popular tourist activity and it is quite common to see henshin in the more touristy areas of Japan, especially Gion in Kyoto. Henshin is popular with women of all ages and tourists from all over the world, including women within Japan. In Japan, I would say henshin is what confuses most people and causes them to misidentify henshin as real geisha or maiko, especially for westerners.
Henshin studios allow tourists to transform themselves via geisha or maiko dress-up for a fee. The studios furnish the kimono and kitsuke accessories and provide make-up and wigs to complete the look. Samurai, oiran, maiko, and geisha henshin are available, but the most popular style of henshin is junior maiko henshin due to the bright, beautiful kimono, elaborate kanzashi, and tall okobo.
Henshin can be an expensive experience, and studios offer services that range from dressing up for pictures to an escorted excursion through the streets of Gion amongst picturesque locales and popular tourist spots. Parks, shrines, the streets of Gion, and temples are all popular henshin excursions.
A tourist in maiko henshin
Henshin, like other forms of non-geisha, can be done well or appear messy and inaccurate. Incorrect wigs, out of season kimono and kitsuke accessories, the presence of an escort, age of the wearer, shoes, and even location are all clues to deciphering henshin vs a real geisha or maiko. Most henshin I have seen fall somewhere in the middle. More expensive henshin companies often provide a more authentic look. The costumes may contain authentic pieces of maiko or geisha kitsuke, but the motifs, seasonality, and parts together as a whole usually end up mixed between geisha, senior maiko, and junior maiko. The most common mistakes seem to be heavy makeup that features both lips painted on a junior maiko, out of season kitsuke or mixed season pieces, the wrong style of okobo, and wigs used for maiko instead of real hair.
Henshin has also been offered outside of Japan at comic, anime/manga, cosplay, and other fan conventions and at some local foreign Japanese festivals. In my experience these booths offer very messy and uncoordinated henshin services, many using satin bathrobes as “kimono” mixed with white theater style facepaint. These sorts of unprofessional henshin studios are generally seen as disrespectful and according to some, a type of cultural appropriation.
In some fan communities, mostly in the west, there are also henshin troupes/groups who collect geisha kitsuke and hold meet-ups where they dress in henshin. I only recently learned about these groups and do not have any information or pictures about them or their activities so I won’t be able to comment on them in this post. But much like cosplay they seem to be comprised of dedicated individuals who truly respect and appreciate geisha and practice henshin for fun.
Those who are fans of geisha and have knowledge of the karyukai are easily able to differentiate between real geisha/maiko and henshin. Some within the community find henshin disrespectful to real geisha while others believe it is a harmless and fun tourist pastime that does not affect the image of real geisha. Like the other forms of geisha imitation, the fan community is divided in its opinions.
Cosplay
Fans of anime, manga, films, and television shows may appear in geisha kitsuke as a cosplay homage to their favourite geisha/maiko characters. Cosplay costumes can be bought ready made, but many are created from scratch. The costuming skills vary from professional to complete beginners. Cosplay is practiced by those who have a love and appreciation for their favourite books, manga, shows, anime, and characters. I’ve found that the vast majority of cosplayers are extremely respectful and eager to learn about Japanese culture and geisha.
Cosplayers seem to fall into a few different categories regarding geisha/maiko:
Cosplay costumes for characters who are geisha/maiko from a video game/book/anime/manga/show/movie
Cosplay representing geisha or maiko
Cosplay of what the cosplayer believes a geisha or maiko looks like
Cosplay that uses the creative influences of geisha and maiko but is not an attempt to represent them
There are many examples of geisha characters in popular media and many of them have been cosplayed. Cosplay representing geisha/maiko is usually by geisha fans within the community and many of the costumes are well put together.
A store made cosplay costume listed as Project Diva Geisha Luka from Volcaniod
Cosplay that uses the creative influences or aspects of the geisha look is also popular. Steampunk influenced geisha costumes, couture outfits, and characters who the costumer invented are all good examples of this. Eilzabeth Hitchens showcased a beautiful couture kimono/kabuki influenced photoshoot on her blog that can be found here: http://geishaface.co.uk/. It’s a wonderful example of high fashion influenced by geisha/kimono.
A incredibly detailed and well done steampunk cosplay costume with geisha and kimono influences
A sayuri cosplay that seems well intentioned, but shows the costumer’s limited knowledge of kimono, especially with the inside-out collar, incorrect hair, make-up, and oddly trailing juban.
Cosplay is a mixed bag of quality when it comes to geisha and maiko. The vast differences in each costumer’s skillset, knowledge, and intention mean that costumers can range from extremely accurate and professional, messy and inaccurate, to outright offensive. Although I have seen very few offensive costumers and disrespectful cosplayers. Thankfully it’s a rarity and highly discouraged in the community.
Imitation
Many people attempt to copy and create their own geisha kitsuke out of appreciation and enjoyment. I’ve used the word imitation as I’m unsure of another appropriate term that encompasses everything. Please do not take the label as a slight or offensive dig, as it is definitely not meant that way.
Enthusiasts may collect authentic or reproduction geisha kimono, accessories, wigs, kanzashi, shoes, and makeup. Some enthusiasts dress up in geisha or maiko kitsuke and take pictures in self styled photoshoots. Some only wear the kimono portion of the kitsuke, omitting hair and make-up, while others elect to dress in the full costume. It is a personal choice of each practitioner, and the reasons behind that choice are all very different, with no wrong approach as long as they are respectful. Many of those who enjoy geisha/maiko kitsuke are also active members of the kimono kitsuke community.
How accurate and clean the kitsuke is varies widely from disheveled, messy, and inaccurate, to very professional looking, accurate, and well-done. In the kimono kitsuke community continuous learning and practice are encouraged, and should never been taken as insults or bullying if unsolicited advice is given. If enthusiasts are attempting to imitate geisha/maiko, they need to be completely open to critique and suggestions for improvement. Humbleness and not showing ego about kitsuke attempts is considered the most polite and correct way to approach geisha kitsuke within the kimono community.
Everyone I’ve encountered that collects geisha/maiko kitsuke has been extremely knowledgable and respectful. They often provide a wealth of knowledge about kimono, geisha culture, and the karyukai. Most are avid researchers and scholars on a diverse range of subjects relating to geisha and are often very helpful in spreading their knowledge. Those who enjoy this hobby are also very clear to never mistake themselves for geisha, and it is clear to those outside the community that these practitioners are respectful fans as a whole.
Those who collect geisha kisuke and kimono also act as curators and preservationists of many highly valued pieces that are culturally significant and greatly admired. Their efforts to collect only helps keep many beautiful pieces from being lost or damaged. Many are active in only communities and openly share images and information about their collections.
Geisha kitsuke is regular kimono kitsuke on steroids. The learning curve is exceedingly high and it is difficult to achieve a well done, clean look without years of practice. Those who are practised and well educated can achieve some very beautiful kitsuke that’s greatly admired in the community. But there can be negative backlash in the fan communities from incorrect or messy imitations because of this. Some fans disagree with ever wearing or attempting full geisha kitsuke, while others have no issues with it. Like all other forms of geisha imitation, there is a lot of debate regarding geisha kitsuke.
Costumes/Halloween
Geisha kitsuke can been seen on the stage, in films and television with geisha/maiko characters, and in photography. Film and television productions within Japan usually show well done geisha/maiko kitsuke. Other productions don’t stand up well to a critical eye. Memoirs of a Geisha is one such example of a film that has inaccuracies in its kitsuke.
Memoirs of a Geisha took a number of creative liberties in the film that are not entirely accurate regarding geisha kitsuke or facts about the karyukai.
Another show to feature geisha is the Japanese drama Hanaikusa, which chronicled the life of Mineko Iwasaki, a famous geisha who wrote her autobiography Geisha: A Life. Productions from Japan that use Japanese actors and actresses usually have the most accurate depictions of geisha and maiko. Geisha characters are found in historical productions, biographical films, romances, TV dramas, and in anime.
Mao Inoue stars as Mineko Iwasaki in the 2007 Drama.
Halloween costumes that attempt to imitate geisha/maiko are another hotly debated issue. Many geisha enthusiasts and fans within the community, as well as the general public generally frown upon dressing up as geisha/maiko for halloween as it is rarely done well, respectful to Japanese culture, or even accurate. Home made costumes are often a mish-mash of kitsuke accessories, inappropriate kimono, and messy makeup and hair. They seem to be what the person believes geisha look like, not what they actually are like, and these costumes are rife with stereotypes (ex. sexy geisha). I personally have never seen a well done geisha halloween costume and think it’s quite disrespectful to Japanese people and geisha attempt a geisha costume.
An example of a home made “geisha” costume that uses a fake kimono, a store bought wig, poor make-up, and a mish-mash of random “geisha-like” accessories. It is in no way accurate and the costumer has made no attempt to understand or respect Japanese culture or geisha.
Store bought costumes are often styled as “sexy geisha” and feature cheap satin materials styled in a mix of kimono and other asian traditional clothes. Some appear to be a mix between kimono elements and Chinese qi pao. These costumes often focus on being as skimpy as possible to be sexy and usually never contain anything remotely authentic or resembling kitsuke. Non-sexy costumes are a range of bathrobe like garments in cheap satin, or imitation kimono made in China.
A sad and disrespectful, but common sight around Halloween. Nothing about this costume is accurate or authentic.
It is generally agreed that these costumes are extremely disrespectful to both Japanese culture and the karyukai. They are also blatant cultural appropriation.
Furisode-San/Kimono-San
Furisode-san, sometimes referred to as Kimono-san are a relatively new and increasingly popular type of geisha imitator. They are paid entertainers who micmic the look of geisha/maiko at a fraction of the cost while remaining easily accessible to the public. Furisode-san are unlike geisha, whose services and time are notoriously difficult to obtain, and require formal introductions.
Furisode Gakuin claims to be the founder of the furisode-san business model. Formed in Tokyo’s Asakusa district in the 1990s by a group of local gift shop owners, the company is also called Asakusa Tourism Furisode Academy. The founders claim they started the business to help preserve traditional Japanese folks arts, while allowing them to be more accessible to the public and tourists. The organization operates as a business that both trains and provides furisode-san entertainers for hire. The furisode-san phenomenon has spread outside of Tokyo and can be found throughout Japan.
Girls 18-25 who wish to be become furisode-san are given a three month “crash course” in some of the traditional arts real geisha/maiko spend many dedicated years studying for. Furisode-san learn the basics of tea ceremony, conversation, kimono dressing, makeup, and dance. Although they perform and dance at hired events, they are not trained in any traditional Japanese instruments and are accompanied by music on tape. They are hired by companies that rent out furisode-san entertainers and are usually paid a salary instead of the commission based/traditional pay structure geisha use. Real geisha can remain in the karyukai for life, some remaining as successors of okiyas, and future managers of the business. Furisode-san are employees only, and their job is unlikely to turn into a career as girls over the age of 25 do not remain in the industry. Furisode-san businesses prefer to only use younger women and most girls will age out of the industry. Geisha however, are talented artisans who are not faced with an expiration date on their services and value. The structure of the karyukai is much more focused on empowering and enabling the success of professional geisha, where furisode-san only benefit their employers monetarily long term.
Furisode-san Tsubaki from Furisode Gakuin performs a tea ceremony
Furisode-san do not live in or belong to an okiya, nor do they train at the traditional schools geisha do, perform on stage in the odori, and they do not entertain in ochayas. They are hired for private parties, bath house entertainment, entertainment in hotels, restaurants, and for tourists. They can be seen attending local events or even handing out flyers in the streets for advertising. Unlike geisha, they will attend a wide variety of events and can be hired by almost anymore. The Asakusa furisode-san charge around 25,200 yen for a two hour party. Within Japan it is understood furisode-san are not geisha, but many tourists can easily mistake them for real geisha. In some newspapers, magazine articles as well as travel blogs furisode-san have been incorrectly listed as a true geisha experience possible for any traveller. More detailed pieces make a clear distinction. The miscommunication may also be due to language barriers.
Furisode-san Tsubaki. Although she is styled as a maiko would be, note her use of wig, differing make-up, and kimono.
Kimono-san exist in very small numbers outside of Japan. Mainly individuals who take on the moniker after self study and interest in geisha culture. I am not aware of any that are professionals or professionally trained western kimono/furisode-san. Without formal training in the aspects of Japanese culture they sell, there is the risk of misrepresentation as real geisha and potential damage to the image and reputation of geisha.
Within the geisha fan and kimono kitsuke community kimono-san and furisode-san are another hotly debated topic. For Japanese furisode/kimono-san many members feel they are disrespectful to real geisha and misrepresent themselves. While others believe that furisode-san only help gather interest in real geisha and may preserve Japanese traditional arts like kimono and dance by making them more accessible to the public. However, there seems to be more negative feelings towards western furisode/kimono-san than Japanese practitioners. Like discussing cultural appropriation, furisode/kimono-sans are often a banned topic within online fan communities.
Foreign Okiyas
Foreign okiyas are an extremely contentious topic in the geisha fan community and the kimono enthusiast community. On many websites, forums, and social media groups discussing foreign okiya is completely banned due to polarizing views held by each side of the issue. Most communities ban recruiting and discussing foreign okiyas as it can be seen as damaging to the communities hard earned legitimate reputation if the topic is taken seriously or encouraged.
Although there are those who approve and support these organizations, a majority do not. Although I try my best to remain unbiased and neutral by presenting facts, foreign okiyas are one topic I have a very strong opinion on. This opinion is based on what I have experienced and seen of these organizations. Because these businesses are not taken seriously (inside and outside Japan) or held up as in any way professional, there is little information or true research available.
Within Japan there are very few authentic practising foreign geisha. They number less than ten active geisha/maiko. Those who are foreign geisha underwent rigorous training in the same teahouses, okiyas, schools, and organizations as authentic geisha and were not given special consideration for being foreigners. They are expected to respect the same rules and traditional lifestyle as geisha, and those who do not follow them risk expulsion from the karyukai and being blacklisted from working at geisha in Japan. Fiona Graham (Sayuki) is an example of this occurring. These individuals are not associated with and should not be mistaken for the foreign okiya phenomenon.
Outside Japan the Hachisu Okiya is one example of a foreign okiya located in Totnes, England. On their Facebook page they describe themselves as “A Geisha House in Totnes making Art and Community a spiritual path (sic)”. The supposed okiya claims to train maiko to become geisha in traditional Japanese arts. Although it is unclear who is training, for how long, and what type of training is occurring if any. Their aim of an authentic okiya seems wildly improbable, if not entirely impossible, due to their lack of education and knowledge about geisha. It is unclear what they constitute as training but they do not play instruments, sing, know Japanese dance, understand correct kitsuke/kimono dressing, speak Japanese, or even grasp the basics of a correct tea ceremony. I am unsure if anyone within their organization has even been to Japan, associated with real geisha, or even traditional organizations associated with geisha and the karyukai. I find the whole thing rather odd and extremely offensive. As a general rule, an authentic okiya does not offer tea ceremonies for $10 to strangers in their living room.
A poster for an event at the foreign “okiya”. Nothing about those poster, picture, or information provided suggests authentic geisha.
Many find the existence of such an okiya insulting, especially considering they charge for entertaining at parties/events and represent themselves as educators in Japanese culture for local cultural events. To me, it is akin to a person who read about playing violins online suddenly calling themselves a violin virtuoso and charging for concerts when they have no training, certifications, or professional experience. Or a prima ballerina compared to a woman who once watched a ballet on TV and then purchased pointe shoes and a tutu, after which she called herself a professional worthy of payment and praise.
Those in foreign okiyas are claiming the prestigious titles of maiko and geisha without any of the hard work. Maiko and geisha training is exceptionally rigorous and regulated, and takes years to complete. The foreign okiyas describe traditional geisha rites such as misedashi, maiko training, and shikomi stages. Unless a foreign okiya boasts association with performers who are trained in traditional Japanese arts as true geisha are, they are merely inferior imitations at best, or offensive cultural appropriators who commit artistic fraud at worst.
A “maiko” from a foreign okiya. The contrast between authentic geisha and this imitation is obvious even to those outside of the community.
An extremely disheveled “maiko” from a foreign okiya. Her sloppy kitsuke is riddled with mistakes, stains, a broken wig, bent kanzashi, inappropriate seasonality, incorrect kimono kitsuke pairings, and odd application of her make-up. Confusingly this maiko is over 40, when in Japan maiko are 15-19 at the start of their training.
My feelings on foreign okiyas may seem harsh, but I really feel they are perpetrating artistic fraud. They completely ignore hundreds of years of cultural history and rules surrounding geisha and appropriate the title for themselves without ever earning it. They are making money off of a falsehood and their poor performances, inferior costuming, incorrect approaches to everything geisha really can harm the public’s view of authentic geisha. The entire concept is ridiculous. In Japan geisha are living history and are protected artisans. They support entire industries of folk artists, musicians, theaters, dance schools, kimono purveyors, and silk craftspeople. The list is nearly endless when considering how geisha and the karyukai contribute to traditional Japanese arts.
If I try to imagine a similar situation occurring within another culture, the outcome is equally as offensive and wrong. Imagine a group of people from Italy or France or Australia who admire native american culture start dressing up as chiefs, invented a tribe name, started wearing sacred cultural artifacts and giving themselves traditional names, then began charging for dance performances they called Pow-Wows. All without involving native american peoples and without ever bothering to properly research the culture they so admire. It would be a preposterous and hideously offensive case of cultural appropriation. In my own case if a group of people formed a traditional Portuguese folk dance (rancho folclorico) troupe and just invented their own dances, threw together made-up and inaccurate costumes, and starting charging for performances, I’d be livid. Folk arts and artists are protected in Portugal and dance troupes/folk group support an entire industry dating back hundreds of years. The same is true of geisha and foreign okiyas.
Unless a drastically different model emerges, I find their existence predatory, offensive, and beyond ridiculous. Foreign okiyas have simply not earned what they want to lay claim to. A vast majority of geisha fans are completely against foreign okiyas due to their complete lack of accuracy, ignorance of geisha customs and rules, general disrespect, and “geisha/maiko” whom have no formal training or experience with the real karyukai.
I feel I’ve done enough ranting on that subject so I’ll end on that note!
Hopefully this (kinda) quick guide helps sort out any confusion between geisha and non-geisha. I think I’ve shown that there are vast differences between the many types of non-geisha both inside and outside of the fan community.
I couldn’t agree more with your views on this topic!
I roleplay online as a geisha and create my own items for my avatar to wear when I roleplay, but I do always make it clear to anyone that I am only roleplaying. I am not a real geisha and though I do try to recreate the traditions and lifestyle of these artists as closely as possible, my knowledge about geisha is only from the internet or books. I can be wrong sometimes and I always keep that in mind and as such, I would never claim to be an expert, nor a professional artist.
What would make me different from the people in a foreign okiya? I think that in practice, we don’t differ much: I see it as a kind of life-action roleplaying. A bit over the top kind of roleplaying, but still. If it was only being done inside their own homes, that would be fine with me. They dress up like geimaiko, I dress my avatar up; they (somewhat) mimic the arts, I write (roleplay) that my character is performing arts; they seem to keep some traditions in mind (like misedashi) and well, I try to have my roleplay character follow all the traditions that I know of…
However, I draw the life where they actively portray themselves as “real“ geisha and charge money for their services. It is insulting to geisha and to any true artist who has put time and effort into their arts. notarealgeisha has already provided more than enough explanation of why foreign okiya are offensive so I am going to leave it at that.
